UPWELL 2023

With over 1,000km of coastline, flanked by the warm waters of the Indian Ocean, we headed to Mozambique to chase some early summer swells with South African surfers- Tanika Hoffman, Emma Smith and Crystal Hulett.

 

 

 

 

EMMA

 

The only thing more consistent than the waves and warm water are the smiles of the local fruit sellers, always making sure you have an endless supply of bananas and coconuts to fuel the marathon dawn surf sessions. 

 

 

 

The best part of it all - I got to share this tropical paradise with some of my favourite people, Tanika and Crystal. We had such fun adventuring through the white sand coconut groves, climbing aboard traditional old wooden dhows, chasing waves and making beautiful memories together. We surfed and laughed so much..I feel like I’m still recovering! 

 

 

 

Mozam always puts things into perspective for me. Less is more and without community we are nothing.

 

 I am so grateful to have experienced more of this incredible country and get to share it with you all. 

 

Hoping to be back soon!!

 

 

 

CRYSTAL

 

Tofo is a coastal town in south-eastern Mozambique.

 

 

To say we are loving life in our little tropical paradise would be a big under-statement. After a two day drive north across the South African and Swaziland border we arrived at our destination in Tofinho, a small tourist and fishing town 23km outside of Inhambane.

 

 

Straight out the surf we find fresh fruit from the local vendors to start rejuvenating for our next surf session. Tohinho is a tropical paradise with the bluest, clearest and warmest ocean water, an abundance of sea life, waves, yellow sand beaches with coconut trees, coral reefs and bikini weather. In our almost immediate vicinity we have a number of waves to choose from, the most popular of these is the Toninho point break. The wave is so good that many professionals have travelled here to surf it in-between competitions and around the corner was a longboard paradise located in Tofo Bay.

 

 

 

In Mozambique you learn quite quickly that having a 4×4 is definitely the only way to go, especially if you’re surfing. Taking the back road we got see how the local people live in their straw hut villages with their live stock and fresh produce. The people in this area work and live off the land and sea. As we drive past kids and adults alike greet us from the side of the road with such enthusiasm. The beauty and scenery of the drive really fills your cup and you could tell it filled everybody’s heart and soul alike with copious amounts of joy. This is a Surf trip the way everybody dreams of it!

 

 

The Mozambicans are a lovely, friendly people. At night the Market comes alive with music playing in the streets and restaurants alive with energy. The local cuisine is also very tasty, everything is as fresh as it gets.

 

 

 

 

Surfing Mozambique is great. But not only this. Mozambique is an amazing country, and it is how you expect Africa to be. The more adventurous you are, the more adventure you’ll have. It’s all up to you and how well prepared you come.

 

 

 

 

The Dow

 

Late one morning, as the tide was going out, we parked our car tucking it away under coconut-palm trees and headed to the Dow across the sandbank.. We waded out to an anchored dhow and met our skipper who helped us aboard. As there was a gentle breeze from the right direction, the lateen sail unfurled, billowed and set in a magnificent triangle of white cotton. The dhow cleaved away from the beach through water of a luminous turquoise colour that seemed otherworldly. Ahead of us, I could make out a series of alluring sandbanks on the horizon.

 

 

 

I spotted a low-lying, white shape which was soon our destination, Starfish island and as you can imagine once we arrived the island was littered with them.

 

The climax of our Mozambique trip might well be spending time on a sandbar, far from shore. These sandy slivers only reveal themselves at low tide: peaceful, picturesque and altogether paradisiacal. Overlooking the calm waters of a secluded bay. A long white beach curled into the distance, lapped by a turquoise sea.

 

 

TANIKA

 

Mozambique is an incredibly special place…. everything from the road trip to get there, to the people, the waves, the fruit stands…. makes it one of my favourite places. I find driving through Africa is an extremely inspiring experience, people live a relatively simple life and are so sincerely happy. Everything one could possibly want, or need is right there, homegrown crops, fruit and coconut trees, family, and friends, as well as a beautiful, healthy ocean. Living off the land gives one a different kind of respect and appreciation for nature and the importance of our ecosystems.  

 

 

The ocean is like any other world-renowned tropical location, crystal clear and beaming with marine life. Our mornings would start with coffee on the hill, waiting for the tide, as whale sharks, manta ray and dolphins swim by. I’ve never felt quite as at peace, happy, energised, and ready to take on the day.

 

The surf was tiny on our first few days of our trip, but we were grateful for the time to explore the beautiful landscape and culture. One of my favourite adventures was meandering down sandy palm tree roads to reach the most stunning beach known as “White Sands”, perfectly named after its loooong, white sand beach. From there we took a Dhow, a traditional Mozambican boat, on a trip to “starfish island” (not sure if that is its real name, or the name we gave it haha :)). After a quick, 20 min boat ride, we reached a beautiful little patch of sand surrounded by starfish! I’d never seen so many beautiful, colourful little creature at once.  We spent the afternoon roaming the island and cooling off among the starfish before continuing our Dhow adventure. 

 

 

When the surf arrived, the waves were non-stop, and SO fun! We surfed from sunrise to sunset, forcing ourselves to go in for lunch and a break from the sun. The African sun is no joke but there is no better feeling than going to bed surfed out and sun drained.